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Luxury · refreshed weekly

How AI wants fragrance & beauty

Diptyque is the most desired fragrance & beauty brand the answers name: Desire 76% of maximum, above indifference. 66% of the 41 brands rated sit above indifference; the rest leave the models indifferent. The category is most divided on emotional magnetism. The brand the answers name most often is Charlotte Tilbury, not the category's market leader.

41 brands rated · 22 named in the answers · 60 AI answers behind presence · rated by ChatGPT, Claude, Gemini

Attraction Standing out: seen as superior, magnetic and influential.
Affinity Belonging: tied to identity, values and legitimacy, not just specifications.
Attachment Being returned to: an emotional bond, a dependable experience, part of the routine.
AttractionAffinityAttachment Each whorl lights one ring per index threshold cleared (84 / 92 / 100 / 108 / 116)

Indices: 100 = the average brand in the same category.Indices: 100 = the average brand across every category in the index. Desire % and status are absolute and read the same either way.

Fragrance & Beauty

Every brand, named first

66% above indifference · 34% indifferent · 0% below · 41 brands

#Brand Desire indexDesire %Status AttractionAffinityAttachment SummaryNamed in
1 Diptyque: Attraction 110, Affinity 107, Attachment 113Diptyque: Attraction 136, Affinity 116, Attachment 127Diptyque 110126 76% Above indifference 110136 107116 113127 Chosen, not lovedAhead on all three 3%
2 Chanel: Attraction 111, Affinity 106, Attachment 110Chanel: Attraction 137, Affinity 115, Attachment 124Chanel 109125 75% Above indifference 111137 106115 110124 Chosen, not lovedAhead on all three 3%
3 Jo Malone London: Attraction 109, Affinity 104, Attachment 112Jo Malone London: Attraction 135, Affinity 112, Attachment 127Jo Malone London 109125 75% Above indifference 109135 104112 112127 Relied on, not excitingAhead on all three 3%
4 MAC Cosmetics: Attraction 111, Affinity 102, Attachment 110MAC Cosmetics: Attraction 137, Affinity 110, Attachment 125MAC Cosmetics 108124 74% Above indifference 111137 102110 110125 Chosen, not lovedAhead on all three 3%
5 Dior: Attraction 109, Affinity 104, Attachment 112Dior: Attraction 135, Affinity 112, Attachment 126Dior 108124 75% Above indifference 109135 104112 112126 Relied on, not excitingAhead on all three 3%
6 Charlotte Tilbury: Attraction 109, Affinity 101, Attachment 106Charlotte Tilbury: Attraction 135, Affinity 110, Attachment 119Charlotte Tilbury 105121 73% Above indifference 109135 101110 106119 Average on all threeAhead on all three 7%
7 Maison Francis Kurkdjian: Attraction 108, Affinity 102, Attachment 103Maison Francis Kurkdjian: Attraction 133, Affinity 110, Attachment 116Maison Francis Kurkdjian 104120 72% Above indifference 108133 102110 103116 Average on all threeAhead on all three 3%
8 Clinique: Attraction 97, Affinity 112, Attachment 105Clinique: Attraction 119, Affinity 122, Attachment 119Clinique 104120 72% Above indifference 97119 112122 105119 Credible, not first choiceAhead on all three 2%
9 Estée Lauder: Attraction 102, Affinity 105, Attachment 103Estée Lauder: Attraction 126, Affinity 113, Attachment 116Estée Lauder 103119 71% Above indifference 102126 105113 103116 Average on all threeAhead on all three 3%
10 Elemis: Attraction 102, Affinity 103, Attachment 103Elemis: Attraction 125, Affinity 112, Attachment 117Elemis 103118 71% Above indifference 102125 103112 103117 Average on all threeAhead on all three 3%
11 Hourglass: Attraction 100, Affinity 103, Attachment 97Hourglass: Attraction 123, Affinity 112, Attachment 110Hourglass 100115 69% Above indifference 100123 103112 97110 Average on all threeAhead on all three 2%
12 Creed: Attraction 103, Affinity 99, Attachment 98Creed: Attraction 126, Affinity 107, Attachment 111Creed 100115 69% Above indifference 103126 99107 98111 Average on all threeChosen, not loved 2%
13 Lancôme: Attraction 101, Affinity 100, Attachment 101Lancôme: Attraction 124, Affinity 108, Attachment 114Lancôme 100115 69% Above indifference 101124 100108 101114 Average on all threeChosen, not loved 2%
14 La Mer: Attraction 98, Affinity 97, Attachment 104La Mer: Attraction 121, Affinity 105, Attachment 117La Mer 100114 69% Above indifference 98121 97105 104117 Average on all threeChosen, not loved 5%
15 Augustinus Bader: Attraction 97, Affinity 96, Attachment 100Augustinus Bader: Attraction 120, Affinity 104, Attachment 113Augustinus Bader 98112 67% Above indifference 97120 96104 100113 Average on all threeChosen, not loved 2%
16 Yves Saint Laurent: Attraction 102, Affinity 94, Attachment 96Yves Saint Laurent: Attraction 126, Affinity 102, Attachment 108Yves Saint Laurent 97112 67% Above indifference 102126 94102 96108 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 2%
17 Parfums de Marly: Attraction 99, Affinity 96, Attachment 94Parfums de Marly: Attraction 122, Affinity 104, Attachment 106Parfums de Marly 96110 66% Indifferent 99122 96104 94106 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 2%
18 Clé de Peau Beauté: Attraction 95, Affinity 99, Attachment 94Clé de Peau Beauté: Attraction 117, Affinity 108, Attachment 106Clé de Peau Beauté 96110 66% Indifferent 95117 99108 94106 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 3%
19 La Prairie: Attraction 95, Affinity 98, Attachment 96La Prairie: Attraction 117, Affinity 106, Attachment 108La Prairie 96110 66% Indifferent 95117 98106 96108 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 2%
20 Xerjoff: Attraction 97, Affinity 93, Attachment 96Xerjoff: Attraction 119, Affinity 100, Attachment 108Xerjoff 95109 66% Indifferent 97119 93100 96108 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 2%
21 Maison Margiela: Attraction 97, Affinity 90, Attachment 94Maison Margiela: Attraction 119, Affinity 98, Attachment 106Maison Margiela 94108 65% Indifferent 97119 9098 94106 Noticed, not returned toNoticed, not returned to 3%
22 Serge Lutens: Attraction 93, Affinity 92, Attachment 87Serge Lutens: Attraction 114, Affinity 100, Attachment 98Serge Lutens 91104 62% Indifferent 93114 92100 8798 Noticed, not returned toNoticed, not returned to 2%
Rated but never named (19)

The models rated these brands when asked, but none of the category's answers named them.

#Brand Desire indexDesire %Status AttractionAffinityAttachment SummaryNamed in
— Hermès: Attraction 110, Affinity 110, Attachment 110Hermès: Attraction 135, Affinity 119, Attachment 125Hermès 110126 76% Above indifference 110135 110119 110125 Ahead on all threeAhead on all three 0%
— Le Labo: Attraction 109, Affinity 101, Attachment 109Le Labo: Attraction 134, Affinity 109, Attachment 123Le Labo 106122 73% Above indifference 109134 101109 109123 Average on all threeChosen, not loved 0%
— Guerlain: Attraction 105, Affinity 104, Attachment 109Guerlain: Attraction 129, Affinity 113, Attachment 123Guerlain 106122 73% Above indifference 105129 104113 109123 Average on all threeAhead on all three 0%
— SkinCeuticals: Attraction 101, Affinity 109, Attachment 105SkinCeuticals: Attraction 125, Affinity 118, Attachment 119SkinCeuticals 105120 72% Above indifference 101125 109118 105119 Average on all threeAhead on all three 0%
— Kiehl's: Attraction 96, Affinity 106, Attachment 106Kiehl's: Attraction 119, Affinity 115, Attachment 119Kiehl's 102118 71% Above indifference 96119 106115 106119 Average on all threeAhead on all three 0%
— Penhaligon's: Attraction 102, Affinity 99, Attachment 104Penhaligon's: Attraction 126, Affinity 108, Attachment 117Penhaligon's 102117 70% Above indifference 102126 99108 104117 Average on all threeChosen, not loved 0%
— Burberry: Attraction 100, Affinity 100, Attachment 103Burberry: Attraction 123, Affinity 108, Attachment 116Burberry 101116 70% Above indifference 100123 100108 103116 Average on all threeChosen, not loved 0%
— Clarins: Attraction 96, Affinity 101, Attachment 99Clarins: Attraction 119, Affinity 109, Attachment 112Clarins 99113 68% Above indifference 96119 101109 99112 Average on all threeChosen, not loved 0%
— Bobbi Brown: Attraction 95, Affinity 103, Attachment 99Bobbi Brown: Attraction 118, Affinity 112, Attachment 112Bobbi Brown 99114 68% Above indifference 95118 103112 99112 Average on all threeAhead on all three 0%
— Armani Beauty: Attraction 103, Affinity 95, Attachment 96Armani Beauty: Attraction 126, Affinity 103, Attachment 109Armani Beauty 98113 68% Above indifference 103126 95103 96109 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 0%
— Byredo: Attraction 97, Affinity 97, Attachment 97Byredo: Attraction 119, Affinity 105, Attachment 109Byredo 97111 67% Indifferent 97119 97105 97109 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 0%
— Roja Dove: Attraction 98, Affinity 99, Attachment 94Roja Dove: Attraction 120, Affinity 108, Attachment 107Roja Dove 97112 67% Above indifference 98120 99108 94107 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 0%
— Acqua di Parma: Attraction 95, Affinity 96, Attachment 98Acqua di Parma: Attraction 117, Affinity 104, Attachment 110Acqua di Parma 96111 66% Indifferent 95117 96104 98110 Average on all threeChosen, not loved 0%
— Tatcha: Attraction 93, Affinity 103, Attachment 93Tatcha: Attraction 115, Affinity 111, Attachment 104Tatcha 96110 66% Indifferent 93115 103111 93104 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 0%
— Tom Ford: Attraction 98, Affinity 93, Attachment 93Tom Ford: Attraction 120, Affinity 101, Attachment 105Tom Ford 95109 65% Indifferent 98120 93101 93105 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 0%
— Sisley: Attraction 91, Affinity 99, Attachment 93Sisley: Attraction 112, Affinity 108, Attachment 105Sisley 94108 65% Indifferent 91112 99108 93105 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 0%
— Prada Beauty: Attraction 93, Affinity 92, Attachment 91Prada Beauty: Attraction 115, Affinity 99, Attachment 103Prada Beauty 92106 63% Indifferent 93115 9299 91103 Average on all threeNoticed, not returned to 0%
— Givenchy: Attraction 91, Affinity 96, Attachment 86Givenchy: Attraction 112, Affinity 104, Attachment 97Givenchy 91105 63% Indifferent 91112 96104 8697 Liked, not chosenNoticed, not returned to 0%
— Elizabeth Arden: Attraction 82, Affinity 93, Attachment 81Elizabeth Arden: Attraction 101, Affinity 100, Attachment 91Elizabeth Arden 8598 59% Indifferent 82101 93100 8191 Liked, not chosenAverage on all three 0%

Indexed against the average of the 41 indexed fragrance & beauty brands, so 100 is the category average and a brand is read against the rivals it actually competes with.Indexed against the average of every indexed brand in the whole index — 2,582 brands across 67 categories — so 100 is the average brand anywhere here and a number reads the same on every board. 41 fragrance & beauty brands rated by the assistants in the latest weekly run; Named in is the share of 60 AI answers that name each brand.

Feature profile

What this category is rated on

The brands are most divided on emotional magnetism: Chanel is rated 5.8 and Elizabeth Arden 4.1 on the 1–7 scale, a spread of 70 against the feature's usual spread (100 = as contested as usual). Against every category, fragrance & beauty is rated highest on emotional magnetism (138) and lowest on values & integrity (100).

FeatureDriverCategory meanVs all categories
Perceived superiority Attraction 5.0/7 113
Emotional magnetism contested Attraction 5.1/7 138
Positive influence Attraction 5.5/7 121
Identity & belonging Affinity 4.1/7 109
Values & integrity Affinity 4.1/7 100
Trust & legitimacy Affinity 5.8/7 115
Emotional bond Attachment 4.6/7 112
Reinforced experience Attachment 4.3/7 109
Part of my routine Attachment 4.9/7 117

A feature's category mean is the average of its brands' ratings, 1–7. Vs all categories indexes it against every indexed brand across every category (100 = the average brand anywhere). The contested feature is the one the category's brands are most spread on, measured against how spread that feature usually is.

Stated vs revealed

Rated well is not the same as named

Across the 41 brands, how highly the models rate a brand when asked and how often their answers name it go loosely together (rank correlation 0.32).

Rated well, rarely named

  • Hermès76% Desire · named in 0%
  • Diptyque76% Desire · named in 3%
  • Chanel75% Desire · named in 3%
  • Jo Malone London75% Desire · named in 3%
  • Dior75% Desire · named in 3%

Showing 5 of 19.

Named, not desired

  • Clé de Peau Beauténamed in 3% · 66% Desire
  • Maison Margielanamed in 3% · 65% Desire

Rated well, rarely named: Desire above the category median, named in 5% of answers or fewer. Named, not desired: among the most-named quarter of the category, yet indifferent or below. A relationship inside one week's run, never a cause.

Model agreement

Where the models disagree

The models broadly agree on these brands (mean correlation 0.82 across 3 pairs: ChatGPT–Claude 0.81 · ChatGPT–Gemini 0.81 · Claude–Gemini 0.83). Still, 157 of 1,271 brand-statement ratings (12%) split by 2 points or more on the 1–7 scale, and the typical brand's Desire differs by 10 points between its most and least generous model.

BrandStatementRated highestRated lowest
Bobbi BrownHealthy Gemini 5 Claude 2
HourglassSustainability Gemini 6 Claude 3
Le LaboConnecting ChatGPT 6 Claude 3
Acqua di ParmaAdvocacy Gemini 6 Claude 4
Acqua di ParmaCustomer experience Gemini 6 Claude 4

The widest 5 of 157 splits.

Across the whole index, on the same brands: Gemini rates +4.5 points of Desire % against its peers; ChatGPT rates −1.7 points of Desire % against its peers; Claude rates −3.0 points of Desire % against its peers. A generous model lifts every brand it rates, which is why scores are combined across models and indexed within the category.

Distinctive statements

What sets the leading brands apart

For the category's leading named brands, the glossary statements each is rated furthest above and below the category's average, in points on the 1–7 scale.

Diptyque
Above the categoryHappiness +1.0, Peace of mind +0.9, Connecting +0.9
Below the categoryLeader −0.5, Innovative −0.3, Best interests −0.2
Chanel
Above the categoryLeader +1.5, Self-expression +1.4, Exclusive experience +1.3
Below the categoryHealthy −0.9, Transparent −0.8, Wealth −0.5
Jo Malone London
Above the categoryHappiness +1.0, Connecting +0.9, Customer experience +0.9
Below the categoryHealthy −0.5, Innovative −0.3, Integrity −0.2
MAC Cosmetics
Above the categoryGood value +1.8, Self-expression +1.7, Energised +1.2
Below the categoryExclusive experience −1.7, Unique −0.9, Integrity −0.5
Dior
Above the categoryExclusive experience +1.3, Leader +1.2, Would miss it +1.1
Below the categoryGood value −0.5, Best interests −0.2, Integrity −0.2

Method & limitations

Every week, ChatGPT, Claude and Gemini are each asked directly, the way a survey asks a respondent, to rate every brand in the category on the 31 statements of the Havas Science of Desire glossary, on the survey's own 1–7 agreement scale. Statements roll up to nine features and the three Drivers of Desire (a feature is the mean of its statements; a driver is the sum of its three features, out of 21; Desire is the sum of the drivers, out of 63). Each brand is indexed against the average brand in its own category — 100 is the category average, 115 is fifteen per cent above it — and the Vs all categories switch re-indexes the same scores against every indexed brand in the index. Desire % is Desire as a share of its maximum. A brand is above indifference when its Desire is above two-thirds of its maximum (42 of 63), below indifference at or under one-third (21), and indifferent in between. The summary beside each brand says where it stands on the three drivers: an index of 110 or more counts as ahead, 90 or less as behind.

These are the assistants' own ratings when asked. They are not a survey of people and not an endorsement, and they are not read from what the assistants happen to say in an answer: the answers to the category's unbranded consumer prompts are used only to count how often each brand is named, and as supporting evidence. Relationships between ratings and how often a brand is named are correlational. A brand is indexed only when all 31 statements have been rated in a run by at least two models, and a category needs at least 4 such brands to get a board. See the full methodology.